Breaking notes: brand new Williamson by BBR

Always nice to have a scoop! We taste a brand new Williamson distilled in 2013 and bottled by Berry Bros & Rudd, especially and exclusively for the Crafts Spirit Company in The Netherlands. They will launch this particular single cask during The Arts of Drinks in Amsterdam this Saturday. Crafts Spirits pride themselves on importing quality over quantity, and one look at their portfolio underlines this perfectly. Independent bottler Berry Bros & Rudd, for instance, but also the smaller but talked-about distilleries like Daftmill and Nc’Nean and innovative blender Turntable Spirits.  Let us take a look at this single cask Laphroaig then, bottled under the name Williamson, carrying the signature of “Spirits Curator” Felix Dear. That is a sign of approval right there.

Williamson 2013, bottled at 60,9 % abv by Berry Bros & Rudd

Makeup: No Whiskybase entry for this Laphroaig yet, but take it from me, this expression matured in cask 211 since the year 2013, and on the way it received a 2 year finish in a Moscatel cask. Only 292 bottles came out of it at natural colour and unchill-filtered.

General impressions: Moscatel is a sweet, white wine. Let’s see if that makes an impression on peated whisky. The only thing that worries me is the high abv. On the other hand, impressive to be this strong still after a good 10 years of maturation. The colour is already nicely golden, which gives the impression beforehand that the (finishing) cask gave a real signature. Indeed, there is a delightful sweetness that rises from the glass, with a nice smoky edge in its wake. The sweetness make this Williamson actually very bearable to keep on the tongue, despite the high abv. We are witness to a wonderful struggle between two styles. The grapes, red apples and maple syrup on the one hand, and the classic Laphroaig signature on the other, with a fierce peaty character.

We diluted a little, since we are convinced there is more to this whisky under the surface. The whisky develops into an even more impressive direction. The water really dials back on the wine influence, and brings out the farmyard. The roles are reversed actually. The red fruit notes are now noticeable in the background, while “Islay” has come to the front. But not medicinal or maritime in any way, you are really at the farm now. The palate remains fruity, with berries (Berry’s?), orange zest and smoked plums (if that exists…). On the finish, this is undeniably a peat monster, that leaves the smoke lingering for a long time.

Conclusion: Some single malts are so good, that I prefer them as naked as possible. Just put them in a (refill) bourbon cask and leave them well alone. So, when you choose to do a finish, it must really add something. Moscatel is a dangerous choice for that, because it might make a whisky too sweet. This Williamson defies all this, and really presents you with high quality but also a welcome variation that pleases the palate. Undiluted and with water, both a pleasure.

Score: 89 points

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