Tasting a Springbank from a pear shaped bottle
Over more than a month ago, we participated in a magnificent tasting hosted by Andrew Wallace of Springbank. It was one of the stops on the Springbank Society European Tour, and the participants got to taste some stunning samples from the Springbank and Glengyle distilleries. While following Andrew on his social media, I noticed he got served quite some stunning samples at his host in Zaltbommel. That inspired me to go back to the past of Springbank and take out an oldie from the drawer for this Campbeltown Wednesday.
The so-called Springbank pear shaped bottles are releases from a long time ago. Liquid history in glass here! The first such pear shaped bottles were seen in the early 1970s, and the design was used until the early 1980s, with only a slight adjustment happening once. The labels changed more often. Judging by the various age statements, this must have been the appearance for the core range bottles of Springbank in those days. (Source: the Dutch Springbank enthusiast Bram van Glabbeek provided me with the relevant pages from “Collecting Scotch Whisky: An Illustrated Encyclopedia Volume 1” by the eminent Emmanuel Dron.)
Springbank 12 years old “pear shape”, bottled at 43 % abv
Makeup: A 12 year old Springbank, bottled in a pear shaped 750 ml bottle, mentioning “100% Pure Malt” on the label. Lovely how big “Campbeltown Malt” is displayed underneath the distillery name. The age statement is on the neck label.
General impressions: This will take some breathing time, because the Old Bottle Effect (OBE) has made a lasting impression on this Springbank. Underneath that strangely herbal aroma are all the signs of old style malt. Lots of barley and lots of fruity notes. The liquid appears rather light in the glass, so one could wonder what casks were used for this batch. Maybe not too many sherry casks? It comes off very clean and crystallised, but there is also a distinct car repair shop vibe to it, not uncommon to Springbank. Only with the power of suggestion can I find some limestone, but mostly I think about white and sour fruit, like green grapes, grapefruit and also a hint of blood oranges. With lots of breathing, the Springbank character unfolds more and more. Already almost 150 words and not a sip taken. Let’s move on!
The struggle begins! There is definitely a big part of the Springbank DNA left in the glass, mostly manifesting on oranges and tangerines and a smoky, woody bitterness, which is an asset. There is also undeniably a metallic undercurrent that might have come from the years in the glass. It does not hinder the beauty of this young Springbank, but it does put on some restraint. Returning to the glass after a sip, you cannot miss the limestone emerging. What a preservation of DNA, that when you drink Springbank today, there is a red line connecting to this long ago predecessor.
It turns out, that with the adding of a little water, really just five drops, you can wash away some of the dustiness. The aroma takes a more tropical turn then. The nosing of this Springbank pear shape expression is the major treat. Sadly, the metallic note on the tongue is a bit enlarged too.
Conclusion: Truly a time machine, this pear shape Springbank, but also underlining that going to the distillery in 2024 is like stepping back half a century, or a whole century for that matter, and finding nothing has changed. I am sure they like to read that, over at the deliciously stubborn and traditional Springbank Distillery.
Score: 88 points
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