Superb waxy Clynelish from the 1996 vintage

It has become a bit confrontational to realize that vintages that used to be “back-up brilliance” for the really good stuff, is now coming of age too. In today’s example, I am talking about Clynelish. In my early days of drinking whisky, whenever I got the chance, I bought a bottle that was produced in the 1970s or 1980s. Most times, you got a chance to sample the expressions on this or that festival, and then make up your mind. Bottles did not fly off the shelf like Taylor Swift concert tickets in those days. But of course, the interest in older Clynelish increased, and so did prices. More and more, I found myself looking at younger products. The 1997 vintage gained quite some reputation, and the surrounding years had followers too. Justifiably so. Problem is, those late 1990s begin to reach the three decade threshold as well! Let’s put a sample in the glass!

Highland Single Malt Scotch Whisky, 22 years old, bottled at 54,7 % abv by C. Dully Selection

Makeup: Never heard of this Swiss bottler, but the bottle looks amazing. Distilled on 26 June 1996 and matured in refill bourbon. Then there is mention of this coming from “vatting cask CD1-18”, whatever that means. In any case, this is a single malt whisky. Bottled in 2018.

General impressions: With such a character, a “secret highland” from Clynelish is never secret. I double checked if I did not indeed have a 1972 in the glass. Lots of beeswax, honey, with a hint of creamy cheese even. Yeah, there is definitely an agricultural scent to it, even though the honeyed aromas are there in abundance. There is a big hint of the orange I peel in the morning to put in my daughter’s lunchbox for school. You could expect this Clynelish to squirt you in the eye like an overripe orange!

The taste is extraordinarily luscious, with lots of bite from the decent alcohol percentage. No doubt about the waxiness, but there is more, like a sticky piece of candy that sticks to all sides of your mouth. A mountain of zest, like the slivers of lemon in your shaken, not stirred Martini. In fact, a vermouth style could be found in this Clynelish too, with the somewhat herbal notes. I am happy to discover that this is not your regular vanilla bomb, but way more complex than that. However, water will bring out some classical bourbon barrel notes. Modestly.

Conclusion: Clynelish at its peak, around this age. I compared it to the Clynelish 1996 that the WhiskyNerds bottled, and that one has a few more years in the cask and therefor more wood influences. This expression is more spirit-driven. I like both styles, no discussion there.

Score: 90 points

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