Unpeated Malt Week on Whisky Odyssey:
Tasting notes for the Special Releases Caol Ila Unpeated

For the blogs on Whisky Odyssey, I not only draw from my own archives. I also get or buy interesting examples from whisky enthusiasts all over the world. As it turned out, for this week a theme was forming: Unpeated Whisky. A strange subject perhaps, since a lot of distilleries produce their whisky without the dominant, flavoursome and smoky peat. I remember a time when it was special that this or that producer started peating parts of their output. Unlikely names such as Tomintoul or Glenturret. Benromach released their “Peat Smoke” series, a particular favourite of mine actually, which is a giant step up from their already lightly peated regular production.

And then there was the reverse movement. Whisky renowned and loved for their peat signature, all of a sudden released output without that smoky tang. Islay legend Caol Ila for instance, started taking a page out of the book of Bunnahabhain and Bruichladdich (who both promptly started releasing heavy hitting peat influenced monsters, think Stoaisha, Octomore, Port Charlotte). Think of it what you will, I for one enjoy the occasional curve ball. Tag along this week, where we present you some of those (usually) (lightly) peated single malts, without it.

Caol Ila 11 years old, bottled at 57,3 % abv

Makeup: An unpeated expression again, after some years of silence. Diageo has been releasing unpeated Caol Ila off and on since 2006 in their yearly Special Releases. This one was matured in “Refill, Rejuvenated, and Ex-Wine” casks. I am guessing, since the language is vague, that the first two are regular bourbon casks.

General impressions: Without any peat to help out, how will this Islay malt stand up against wine influences? We proceed with caution. The colour is quite light for whisky from wine casks, so that is hopeful, but putting the glass under my nose makes me weary. This is very intensely dipped in the wine, with sour grapes to the forefront. 

It is not exactly terrible, but do we want to showcase whisky or the fact you had some wine casks lying around? Because this is predominantly cask on alcohol we’re sniffing. Taking a sip of it, the heavy tannins attack straight away, leaving little room for the subtle spirit that we are supposed to taste unpeated. Why again? I only get a stupid wine signature, and not even a good one. With some water, I get some redeeming farmy notes on the nose, but despite displaying good balance, the taste is horrendous.

Conclusion: What a total waste of such unique spirit – unpeated Caol Ila. Total red flag from me on this one. The whisky is as it should be, balanced and all, which means the thing you are drinking was created intentionally. Why one would willingly drown this particular spirit in wine casks, is truly beyond me. It might as well have been Glendullan, Dufftown or Glen Ord, the wine would have hidden the source in all cases. Reading some comments on Whiskybase, someone says “No purchase recommendation to speak off!” and still scores it 85 points. The score must be a mistake, but I fully agree with the former part of the remark.  

Score: 77 points

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