Benrinnes: from 1975 to modern-day sherrywhisky

Benrinnes is such a name that shows up regularly at independent bottlers. For some reason, enough of it is available on the market for independents to buy. The quality is generally very good, underlining that Benrinnes is also a popular blending malt. Owner Diageo does not put much attention on the brand, with only a Flora & Fauna expression available, if even that. In the Special Releases we have seen some absolute sherry belters. Today we stick to the independent bottlers, one of which is Michiel Wigman. I am very curious to see if he managed to find a Benrinnes that is above average, because honestly speaking, I have seen a lot of releases over the years that were easily interchangeable. I actually stopped looking for Benrinnes altogether, so this will be a nice re-acquaintance.

The second sample comes with a story. It was one of the first (very) old single malt whisky I tried, back when I was just tipping my toe in this new hobby. The Benrinnes 1975 we will taste today is (in)famous for being dark as coffee, and tasting like liquified wood. But that was then. How do we like it now? An interesting titbit about Benrinnes isthat for long they had a unique distilling regime, in common with Mortlach and Springbank. At Mortlach they started marketing this “2.81” time distillation. During my one and only visit to the distillery during the Spirit of Speyside Festival of 2019, I was told the regime has been turned into a more traditional double distillation. Will it make the spirit less meaty and more light and floral? We will see in years to come.

Benrinnes 2007, 17 years old, bottled at 52,3 % abv by Michiel Wigman

Makeup: Bottled for the 5th anniversary of Dutch Whisky Connection as a company. In itself, the project that started with Michiel Wigman (bottler) and Bert Vuik has been around since whisky was invented. This Benrinnes was distilled in February 2007 and bottled in April 2024. By the looks of it, this came from a sherry cask and 210 bottles were produced.

General impressions: The nose on this Benrinnes is just brilliant. We have seen more bourbon cask matured expressions over the years, but I think this malt shines best on sherry maturation. Some raisins, peaches, hints of copper and dark bread. Taking a sip, I am reminded of the Diageo Special Releases expression from 2009. Heavy on the wood, a bit volatile with the alcohol, and on the finish very satisfyingly burning. The wood influence is strong, with a taint of smoke. For a modern sherry, this comes off quite classical.

We dropped in a little H20 to see what happens next. Maybe some more regular and modern influences are laid bare. A hint of freshly sawed staves arises, but that is it. No further development, the nose remains lovely. The taste has developed a nasty edge (in a good way!) relying on copper coins and tea with the Earl Grey left in too long. There is an aftertaste that reminds me of much older whisky (not in age, but vintage, like the one we are going to taste). Some kind of wood smoke that elevates this Benrinnes above contemporaries.

Conclusion: If this could be modern-day sherry, then sign me up. This was a good cask, with influences that still keep an eye on the whisky and not just tell a story of wood, nuts and sulphur. This Benrinnes is far from the meaty variant we also love, but this is regular good whisky in its own right. Great find by Michiel Wigman.

Score: 88 points

Benrinnes 1975, 31 years old, bottled at 55,5 % abv by Gordon & MacPhail

Makeup: Leaving a first-fill sherry cask alone for 31 years is a ballsy move by Gordon & MacPhail, but this bottler usually knows what it is doing. This whisky was distilled on 5 May 1975 and bottled on 19 October 2006. Cask # 3444 produced 204 bottles for the Dutch market. I remember not buying this bottle “because it tasted too woody”. Price was not a discussion then. Let’s see how big of a mistake that was. Bottling series was G&M Reserve.

General impressions: Really dark in colour, the cask infused the whisky very intensely. The nose is just as intense, with strong leather smells and furniture polish aroma, but also leaving room for the traditional red fruits. Asian spices like curry chutney which are not all that uncommon in whisky from these years. Then it swings back to forest fruit tea.

Upon sipping we cannot escape the old sentiment: this is indeed wood infused to the absolute maximum. Being a more experienced whisky drinker now, I can appreciate it better than before, but in 2024 this is also not a style you will ever come across in bottles you can afford. That enhances the experience, obviously. With some water added, you could easily mistake this for old 1960s Springbank. Lots of leather and wood, cold, stale coffee, everything is there. The taste reveals some hints of sweetness, but also a rubbery note with some sulphur. The finish becomes phenomenal on wood smoke, dark, very dark chocolate, and still enough alcohol kick to make it last forever.

Conclusion: I stand corrected on my youthful self, but I also get what was my objection back then. No regrets. In any case, thanks to my reader Rob, who found my blog and offered me a sample swap. I am very glad I was allowed to choose this time machine sample. It was a thrill. Still nosing the last sip, reluctant to down it (forever?).   

Score: 91 points

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