Malt from a mystery distillery but not a mystery bottler

As I write the tasting notes for today’s blog, I just received a package containing a “secret” whisky. In this case I know it came from Islay and also from which distillery. Because sometimes the bottler knows this information, and is not reluctant to share it. He just cannot put the name on the label. Fair enough. It is a practice that keeps on growing and which is a terrible shame, if you ask me. Especially since the independents are most times doing the official brands a huge favor.

Today we taste a 2003 vintage single malt whisky from a mystery distillery. The bottler however is Hogshead Imports and this is became a well-established name in no time. It entered the market with charming green glass bottles and beautifully classic deliberately simple labels. It immediately screams “whisky for nerds”, somehow. Since their debut, they have gained a healthy reputation. So, in this case, I trust the bottler, even if I don’t know from which distillery I am tasting this peated malt. Logical deduction brings me close to Loch Lomond though. At the turn of the century not many mainland distillers were peating their product. I can think of Benromach and Tomintoul being frontrunners. Tomatin had peated output. I don’t really know when Glenturret started. In any case, options are few. My guess is Loch Lomond, so maybe their output for the Inchmoan products, or one of the many Dr. Frankenstein experimental stuff. Let’s go and see!

Peated Highland 2003, 19 years old, bottled at 48 % abv by Hogshead Imports

Makeup: This whisky matured for 19 years in a refill bourbon hogshead. We expect a lot of spirit to do the talking here, just how we like our peaters.

General impressions: Ooph! A dirty little fellow here! Creamy smoke, butter and melting cheese. Damp vegetation along the roadside after a Scottish rain shower. Wet tarmac. Something is decomposing here. A most interesting nose, and quite a contrast with the first impression after taking a sip. The taste is vastly superior to anything you would expect from the nosing. There is a sweet ‘n sour note, lots of lemons, but also some candied goodness. The finish leaves the smoke lingering for a long time. With water, an overdose of camphor comes out. At times I think of a Greek meal at which Ouzo is served. The anise gives this Peated Highland something unique. After some breathing after adding a few drops of water, there is also a distinct briny note, making the peat give off a more forestry character, leaning towards some light sulphur.

Conclusion: Complexity in abundance here, and a nose to fight with. The highlight for the whisky to me personally is the drinking experience. The taste of this (my guess, still) Loch Lomond is very rich, doing justice to 19 years in the cask. Incredibly entertaining for experienced enthusiasts! 

Score: 87 points

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