Finally getting round to some Deanston samples
There are some single malts that have never been really on my radar, and Deanston is one of them. If I tasted all together maybe 15 or 20 of them since I started getting into whisky twenty years ago, it will be rounded off upwards. Recently, my dear friend Robbert sent me a link to a whisky rant done by a guy called Ralfy. Since I am more of a reader, I hardly ever go to podcasts or vlogs, so this guy was quite new to me. I liked and do support things he has to say, so this rant is highly recommended. In the meantime, this bottle of Deanston is standing there in full view, and that reminded me I have some samples stashed away. One of them is certainly one of the more talked about whisky of last year, but we will kick off with an older version.
Deanston 12 years old, bottled at 46,3 % abv
Makeup: From a time distilleries still had an “Un-Chillfiltered” series. This expression was bottled in 2009, making this a 1990s distillate.
General impressions: Rather fragrant nose with pear, grass, vanilla, blooming flowers, a little bit all over the place. There is also something looming in the dark, maybe an overload of wood, old books, dustiness and a little off-note that I have difficulty defining. Quite a firm body but the stuff is a little bit too simple. I like the wood spices, and the abv seems very well chosen. That gives it a bit of a bite to remind you this is a highland whisky.
Conclusion: Straightforward delight, leaning towards the bitter, nicely balanced.
Score: 80 points
Deanston 10 years old, 2012-2023, bottled by WTF Utrecht at 51 % abv
Makeup: Distilled in 2012 and filled into a cask numbered 374. On 4 July 2023 it was put into 309 bottles. Apparently, this is a Second Fill ex oloroso AND ex Ben Nevis hogshead. Why should we care the cask previously held Ben Nevis?
General impressions: This was a festival bottling for the charming event in the Dutch city of Utrecht, of which we just missed the most recent (2024) edition. When we put the glass under the nose, we are hit with Ben Nevis straight away! Joking of course. There are some nice dirty notes from the sherry cask indeed. Earthen floor, casks on wooden rails, just maturing away. Lovely smell. But then someone opens a door and throws in some apples, rhubarb and some clove nails. The taste has a lot of bitter notes with a waxy base underneath it, but when you add some water the taste really takes a sweet turn, mostly on sugars, some upbeat berries, in the strawberry direction. There is a nice smoky note on the finish that gives this whisky a very old soul.
Conclusion: The cask (heritage) does the heavy lifting here. If anyone every wants to attempt making a blended malt, it seems Deanston and Ben Nevis could be natural partners. As it is, this is a terrific whisky, maximizing the Deanston spirit.
Score: 86 points
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