A visit to Mull for wine influenced Tobermory

It has been ages since I had something from Mull in my glass. As you know, the big island is home to only one distillery located in a town that gives it its name: Tobermory. Quite a big island, it is off the beaten track when you go to Scotland, and this is probably why I still have never been there. Perhaps the only way to reach it, is taking a ferry from Oban. If I am not mistaken, there is also an elaborate connection leaving from Port Askaig on Islay, going via the Isle of Colonsay, to end up in either Oban or on Mull. You can see I am not a travel agent, but if I was a tourist this would be a dream trip; island hopping in the Hebrideans.

Tobermory produces two styles of malt whisky, one that carries the distillery name and is unpeated. The other variety is Ledaig, a peated production with a PPM of 35-40. A heavy hitting dram, often compared to Ardbeg in style. The name Ledaig was used as the distillery name until 1993, when Burn Stewart Distillers took over and named it (back) to Tobermory. Ironically enough, most of the distillery’s output nowadays leaves the island under the name Ledaig, so popular has the peated malt become. Today however, we taste a Tobermory, one that got a wine treatment. So, buckle up and see if we have discovered yet another whisky ruined by this type of maturation.

Tobermory 2008, 13 years old, bottled at 52,5 % abv by The Whisky Fellas

Makeup: A bottling in The Handsome Serie, from a single cask bearing the Biblically long number 110363, but only producing 70 bottles. The cask type was an ex-Chardonnay Barrique.

General impressions: The colour on this whisky is quite dark, a nice orange golden hue, which surprises me since Chardonnay is mostly a white wine. As always, the nose did not suffer at all from the wine influence. Here is a rather meaty, deep red fruity aroma coming from the glass, which certainly peaks my interest. It also has some dirty notes, like farmland on a dry day, lots of hey and maybe even some animal droppings. Could this stuff have been mixed up and this still turns out to be Ledaig production? I would believe you immediately.

Taking a sip, the sweet attack is very pronounced. It feels very juicy on the tongue and brings about lots of sweet ‘n sour fruit notes, like grapefruit, blood oranges, but also clove and pure chocolate. The power of suggestion is strong on this Tobermory, so the idea of maritime grapes is not far away. By now, I have shaken the idea of Ledaig and return firmly to Tobermory. The liquid is good, balanced, and stands up well to this more exotic cask.
Only at this finish, the dry and tannic notes submerge. I added a little water which makes the farmy note even more forward, but I also pick up a nice malty influence. This continues on the tongue and gives the finish a much juicier character. The whole does become more sweet.

Conclusion: Whisky for people with a sweet tooth, but who still desire MALT whisky. This is a combo that works, compliments for that. Well integrated maturation here, and I found myself wandering to check if there are still bottles out there. Then I saw the price, had a good laugh, and closed the laptop. Still, if you are willing, this bottle is recommendable.

Score: 86 points

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