Knockdhu & AnCnoc: birds of the same feather

The Knockdhu Distillery is quite popular amongst whisky aficionados because it is a quaint setup, hinting towards old days of distilling. I still have to manage to visit it, because as I understand from everyone who did, it is worth the trip. I only once drove passed it on my way to Glenglassaugh. It has an idyllic location indeed; everything you’d expect from a Scotch whisky distillery.

On auctions, I always like to watch out for weird stuff. This is how I stumbled upon interesting bottles from the Knockdhu Distillery. One carrying the name of the distillery, but an almost similar one carries the name “AnCnoc”. The story is well-known: Knockdhu decided to find a new name for their single malt output, because it sounded too similar to the much more famous Knockando. So, this is how they came up with AnCnoc, which basically means the same, something about black hills. I had little competition at the auction, and bought there the first ever single malt expression carrying the Knockdhu name, and its follow-up, the AnCnoc single malt. Of course, these days AnCnoc is a household name, of which I particularly enjoy the 18 years old.

AnCnoc 12 years old, bottled at 40 % abv

Makeup: Knockdhu was bottled as single malt for the first time in 1990. In 1993 the first AnCnoc came onto the market as a replacement.

General impressions: There is nothing like a good highland nose, which feels a more natural region for AnCnoc than the Speyside region. Some forest notes on the nose, banana peel, lots of heather, light hints of perfume. Taking a sip brings out more of these floral notes, mixed with bitter wood and dark chocolate, some clove and ginger cookies. 

 

It is a simple drinking whisky, but certainly not without complexity. These are hidden gems, and a time capsule to how single malt reached the market in the infancy days of single malt releases. 

This AnCnoc, I am sure, must have provided a shock to the senses in an era where most people were drinking Ballentine’s and Johnnie Walker. It has an approachable character, but then delivers all these quirky, hidden treasures.

Conclusion: A delightful blast from the past. Don’t pass it by when you see it an auction.

Score: 84 points

Knockdhu 1974, bottled at 40 % abv by Gordon & MacPhail

Makeup: This bottling with the Old Map Label in the legendary Connoisseurs Choice range by Gorden & MacPhail, is traditionally vague on any details. So, we know it was made in 1974, and bottled in 1991, at the lowly 40 % abv. We know from experience that 40 % then is a whole different thing to 40 % now.

Very light on heather and slightly peated aromas. Extremely floral, like a flowerbed that has gone beyond its prime and is now slowly decaying. Over time, the heather returns, which I really enjoy. It has whiffs of old books and certainly a feel of a whisky from the 1970s. But, contrary to what I expected, it all feels too light at this abv. Taking a sip underlines this. A very light mouthfeel, sweet and floral leaning towards a soapy note, but with a darker chocolate balancing it out. Dry finish.

Conclusion: Drinking whisky from a bottle that was closed over 30 years ago can be tricky. How was it stored all these years? I think this Knockdhu lost some of its performance along the way. An interesting drop from the time machine nonetheless.

Score: 82 points

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